Tuesday, September 23, 2014

Cool Conference on (Slightly Geeky) Latvian Stuff

How does a community preserve its history? That was the basic question posed at the Second Latvian Archive, Library, and Material Culture Conference. While the title of this event is enough to put many people to sleep, the conference was fascinating and incredibly relevant for most Latvian- Americans. Because - really - when your grandmother, who had been active on the boards of two different organizations and a member of many more, and an avid reader, passes away, do you have any idea what to do with all of her old papers, books and Latvian knick-knacks? Yeah - I didn't think so! Although the conference touched on many more in-depth (and - for many of us - not-as-relevant) topics, the issues raised and various resources mentioned were generally very interesting.

The first day was most interesting, as that took place at the Library of Congress in downtown Washington. I rode Metro to Union Station, then walked several blocks to the Library's Madison building, which is just one of three building the Library occupies near the Capitol. It was September 11, and it was sobering to see all flags at half-staff. I was working in DC, just a few blocks from the White House, on that day, and I - like all Washingtonians and New Yorkers - remember the events all too well.
Union Station with flags at half-staff








Lovely fountain at Jefferson building
The Jefferson Building is the original and best-known LOC structure; the Madison building is modern and not as lovely, although the sixth floor room in which we met had large windows and some great views of DC. The conference was kicked off with opening remarks by a whole slew of dignitaries and VIPs. I was most excited to hear the Librarian of Congress, Dr. James Billington, speak. His area of expertise is Russia, and it turns out that he was one of the first Americans to visit Soviet-occupied Latvia in 1958. We were further welcomed by Ambassador Razāns, Rep. John Shimkus of the Baltic Caucus, John Medveckis who is both Honorary Consul for Latvia in Pennsylvania and a trustee of the LOC, Jānis Kukainis of the World Federation of Free Latvians, and American Latvian Association Chair Anita Bataraga.
Dr. Billington, Librarian of Congress
Rep. Shimkus



The meat of the conference began with the keynote speaker, Grant Harris, Head of the Library's European Division. He spoke a bit about the Library's history, its collection policies (the idea that they might have everything ever published is a myth!), and items in its collection related to Latvia. The basic take-away was that if you are doing any research on Latvia, the Library is a wonderful place to find materials. Just by searching "Latvian" in the Library's catalog, I came up with over 6,000 items, and that does not include periodicals!
Grant Harris
The rest of the day included lunch (the LOC cafeteria was surprisingly good, and not too expensive), and a couple of sessions on various collections and archives both here and in Latvia. For example, the University of Washington, home to a Baltic Studies program, has a collection of 1,200 pieces of Baltic music, including 730 choral scores. The presenter, Heather Garbes, said "the Baltics are hot right now." As examples she mentioned the fact that last year thirty students had studied Lithuanian at UW, and that works by Latvian composer Ēriks Ešenvalds is incredibly popular among choirs around the world. (My personal favorite Ešenvalds piece is Dvēseles dziesma, i.e. The Soul's Song.) Latvians might be interested to hear that later when I asked Heather what her favorite Latvian choral piece is, she instantly answered: Saule, Pērkons, Daugava.
Being as erudite as they are, Cory & Linda discuss Latvian art.
I was glad to have lunch with my old friend Liga.
Another speaker, Elga Zālīte of Stanford, spoke about the personal archives of Rev. Zariņš, who was minister in the New York City Latvian Lutheran congregation for fifty years. He was instrumental in helping many Latvians as they arrived in the U.S. from displaced persons camps in Germany in the late 1940s and early 1950s. For example, the notes he kept in his calendars indicate that he personally met many incoming ships in NY harbor - sometimes even twice in one day. Apparently, Rev. Zariņš' many letters and other papers offer a rather detailed glimpse into the lives of Latvians as they sought to take refuge and build new lives in America.

One of the Library of Congress research center's is The American Folklife Center, and Ann Hoog showed us some interesting things from their collection. Imagine my surprise when up on the screen popped up photographs from my Latvian Saturday school back in 1982, when I was already a student there! It had been a part of a larger project funded by the Center, and she mentioned that the collection contained quite a few photographs, with names listed. The few she showed did not picture me (or my mom, who was a teacher at the school, nor my younger sister who was also a student at the time), but I recognized at least a couple of my former teachers, and Ann said there are many more and that I'm welcome to stop by and look at them sometime.

Ginta Zalcmane of the National Library of Latvia informed us of several current and a couple of potential new projects. One interesting website hosted by the Library is called Zudusī Latvija, or In Search of Lost Latvia. Anyone can upload an old photograph and description, and others using the site can further enhance the description if they happen to know more. The site already contains many lovely old photos which let us learn more about life in Latvia in earlier times. I, too, have decided to add some of my family's old photographs to the site this fall. She also mentioned the website Periodika.lv (praised by several researchers over the course of the conference), which contains over 100 newspaper and magazine titles. For anyone wishing to find information about past events either in Latvia or in Latvian communities around the world, this is an incredibly useful resource. A quick search turned up a number of articles in Latvian-American publications written by my father or by me, as well as articles which mentioned numerous members of my family.

Later in the afternoon we were treated to a visit to the Map and Geography Division where we were able to examine a number of rare historical maps of Latvia. The funniest thing was the LOC employee who scurried around excitedly snapping photos of us looking at the maps -- apparently it is rare for them to have such a large group of people who are so interested to see a part of their collection. We were also given a short tour of the public part of the Jefferson building, which is absolutely stunning. If you are ever in DC, I highly recommend visiting!
Just one map of Latvia we were able to scrutinize.
Conference attendees examine historical maps of Latvia in Map & Geography Division
The top part of a patriotic map of Latvia created in Western Europe after WWII.
Overlooking the Jefferson Reading Room.
Thomas Jefferson's library: some are the original books he owned!
After our tour, some friends and I took Metro to Dupont Circle, where they were staying, then ate dinner at Zorba's Cafe, which I also highly recommend. Fully satiated with Greek food, we headed to the Embassy of Latvia for an art exhibit opening and reception. Art on exhibit were prints by Latvian-American artist Janis Šternbergs, who came to the U.S. and made Kentucky his home. He is not well known in the Latvian-American community, but Sarma Liepiņš is a fan, and collects his art, so the exhibit was curated by her. Then I dragged my tired self home, as I had another full conference day to look forward to.
Prints by Janis Sternbergs
Old and new friends
On Friday we were hosted by the Embassy, and we heard a number of additional interesting talks. Cory McLeod works at the advertising agency Olson in the Twin Cities. The agency did a pro bono project for the Riga Ghetto Museum in which they created a map of the ghetto so that one can take a virtual tour of the ghetto using modern-day Google street view, while hearing memories from survivors. The map is chilling, but unfortunately it is a painful part of Latvian history, and it is interesting to see modern technology used to make history more understandable.

The most practical session in some respects was presented by Dace Ķezbers of Chicago and Sarma Liepiņš of Boston. Both often get called upon to help sort through belongings of Latvians who've passed away, and they had some rather useful tips. Sarma said that one should keep an eye out for small containers, such as little boxes and tins. She said those sometimes contain surprising or meaningful items: sand or small amber pieces from Latvia, ashes of a deceased relative, or even gold teeth. Sarma estimated that a gold tooth can be worth around $600 nowadays. Dace also mentioned leafing through books, as occasionally those contain items of note - either the author's or someone else's signature(s), old event programs, photographs, or even money.

Representing the Latvian National Archives, Inese Kalniņa, informed us about resources available from their website, such as the genealogical research site Raduraksti, which one of my cousins in Latvia has used to find quite a bit about my maternal grandfather's side of the family. (However, I will mention that my efforts to find information about my father's side of the family were quickly thwarted when I realized how difficult it was: information is handwritten, often in German and using strange abbreviations, etc.) The archives also possess an enormous card catalog about Latvian displaced persons in post-war Germany that was organized by the Red Cross, but my understanding was that this wealth of information is currently being digitized, and it will be a while before it is available for research use.

Dinner involved a group of twelve conference attendees and presenters returning to Zorba's where we quickly commandeered an entire corner of the second floor dining room for a filling Greek dinner.

Saturday was a short day, with only a couple of hours of discussions and workshops at the Latvian church hall in Rockville. Cory showed us how we could - if we had the time and resources (seeing as the software has to be purchased at $50/month) - create an app, which was interesting, but not something I plan to do anytime soon! Additionally, I participated in a small work group in which we discussed recommendations to be made to the American Latvian Association on further actions. This was already the second such conference, and we all agreed that another conference in two years - preferably on the West coast (seeing as the first one was held in the Twin Cities, in the Midwest) - would be a good idea. Various other suggestions were discussed, but - as always - the limiting factors of time and money are an issue.

Overall the conference was very interesting, and I am incredibly glad I was able to attend.

Friday, September 19, 2014

One of My Favorite Places: C&O Canal Celebrates 60 Years

This morning I was surprised to read an interesting article about the C&O Canal National Park in the Washington Post. It turns out I knew nothing at all about the history of the Park, and I'm glad this article taught me a thing or two! Basically, the story boils down to U.S. Supreme Court Justice William O. Douglas and his wife hiking in the park many weekends, then hearing about a 1954 plan to build a highway along or over the area, and finding a clever way to protest this. The highway plan was abandoned, and in 1954 President Eisenhower designated the canal and towpath a national monument. Although many people outside of the DC area have not heard of the park, it is the ninth most popular park in the country, given that five million people visit annually!

Over the weekend I hope to finally finish my post about the great Latvian conference I attended last week, but in the meantime I plan to enjoy the sparkling weather we are having -- maybe even with a hike along the C&O!

Wednesday, September 17, 2014

Links for You!

In my experience earlier this year, roads in Lithuania were generally in better shape than roads in Latvia, but these folks disagree and found a hilarious way to highlight their displeasure.

This article about a woman of Latvian heritage who became a special agent is fascinating!

Hope you are having a good week! We are blessed with beautiful weather here in the DC area, but my days mostly consist of sitting in the office, so am very much looking forward to the weekend...

Friday, September 12, 2014

Library of Congress (Quickly)

For three days I am participating in a conference organized by the American Latvian Association. Each day takes place in a different location, and yesterday we were in the Library of Congress. I am ashamed to say that in my fifteen years of living in the DC area, the LOC was an American institution I had not yet visited, but I am grateful I was able to rectify that! The Library is spread out over three buildings near the Capitol, but the Jefferson building is the oldest, best known and most stunning. The majority of the day we were in a modern conference room on the sixth floor of the Madison building, but we were given the typical tour of the Jefferson, as well. Here are just a couple of photographs, and I will write more about this wonderful experience later.




Wednesday, September 10, 2014

Links for You

Reading what other folks have to say about their adventures in Latvia is fascinating! Here are just two recent blog posts for you to enjoy.

Heather of Ferreting Out the Fun had a fun-filled summer weekend Liepaja.

Ryan at Treksplorer loved the gorgeous architecture in Riga during his short visit.

Later this week I'm participating in a Latvian-American conference in DC; I am very much looking forward to it, and presume I will have many interesting experiences to write about soon! Hope you are having a good week!


Monday, September 8, 2014

3-Day Weekend and Take a Trip: Antietam Battlefield

There are few things better in life than three-day weekends! My Labor Day weekend included attending a baby shower and a fun end-of-summer party, which was luckily held indoors, seeing as the day was mostly uncomfortably hot and humid, with occasional torrential downpours.

On Labor Day itself, which was also ridiculously hot and sticky, my travel buddy Bryan and I took a little road trip out toward Western Maryland. First we visited Antietam National Battlefield, which is where the Civil War's bloodiest battle took place. Our initial stop was the visitor center, where I was pleasantly surprised by the colorful flowers both in the flower beds out front and in pretty arrangements in the ladies' restroom. They added much needed color to a somber and history-heavy place.
The exhibits in the visitors center were quite interesting and informative, and the bookstore sold all of the typical books, postcards, etc., but also hats. The hats worn by the troops didn't do much for me, but a top hat similar to one worn by President Lincoln suited me quite well.
Visiting Antietam entailed a driving tour with about ten stops, many of which - honestly - are not that interesting, unless you are a true Civil War buff. So, we skipped some of the stops, but did made sure to check out the more interesting ones.


Observation tower built by War Department later for training purposes
Burnside Bridge - site of one battle that day, and 150yr old sycamore tree that witnessed the battle and is still standing!
Cemetery where only a fraction of soldiers are buried
After Antietam, we paid a visit to the little town of Boonsboro, which nowadays is best known due its association with romance novelist Nora Roberts, who also write mysteries as J.D. Robb. She lives nearby, and owns a bookstore called Turn the Page, along with several other businesses. 

Her impact on the town was highlighted in this article in the Washington Post. After lunch at Kristi's Cafe, we stopped at the bookstore, which is heavy on the Roberts and Robb titles. One entire room of the shop is full of her books; as you can see, she is a prolific author. 

Before leaving town and trying to avoid the area's single rain cloud, I couldn't resist taking a photo of another store's sign.
Restaurant, guns and ammunition - Only in America!
Soon the sun was shining once again, and next we stopped at Gathland State Park, which back in the late 1800s had been the home of Civil War journalist George Alfred Townsend. He had constructed a number of building on the property, but only a couple remain. One is the vault in which he'd hoped to be buried, although that did not happen. One of the two remaining buildings features an exhibit about Townsend and his life, while the other has exhibits on what it was like to be a Civil War journalist. Also located in the park is the War Correspondents Memorial Arch, dedicated in 1896. Townsend solicited donations from the likes of J.P. Morgan, and had the arch built to honor Civil War correspondents.
War Correspondents Memorial Arch
Tomb where Townsend hoped to be buried
Former summer dining room
The Appalachian Trail runs through the park, so we took a mini-hike on that. From there we drove to the town of Brunswick, as I had heard about a unique cafe,  Beans in the Belfry, located in an old church. If you are ever in the area, this establishment is well worth a stop! Most everything on the menu - from coffee drinks to iced tea to ice cream sundaes - sounded delicious. Of the items we sampled, I was very happy with my gazpacho (available for a limited time due to a special Frederick County "farm-to-fork" special menu) and my tropical iced tea. Bryan's frozen lemonade was too tart, but he praised the carrot cake. With its many tables and different seating areas, Beans in the Belfry is an ideal spot for a lazy afternoon with a book and latte; if I lived in the area, I would certainly be a regular customer!


Friday, September 5, 2014

Social Season Begins: Reception at House of Sweden

Summer is a quieter time in terms of Latvian and other such events. Labor Day heralded the end of summer (sob! More on my long weekend adventures later), and two days after that I attended a reception at the House of Sweden, a modern building on the Potomac River in Georgetown. It houses the Embassy of Sweden, as well as the Embassy of Iceland, as well as plenty of space for events. In conjunction with Rīga and Sweden's Umea being this year's Culture Capitals of Europe, the Latvian and Swedish embassies cooperated to present an exhibit of beautiful tapestries by Latvian artist Iveta Vecenāne. The tapestries are bit difficult to photograph, but here are a few pics from the evening. The light colored ones include thread made from amber! More info about the exhibit can be found here. The exhibit can be viewed on Saturdays (11am - 4pm) and Sundays (12pm - 5pm) through September 21
Seashore scenes
One of my favorites - I love the colors!
This one looked much better in real life!
With friends S and Z enjoying the new social season!